Busy times

It's been quite a busy couple of weeks with work.  It's a pleasure to live and spend time in a place where you can offer a wide variety of adventures to your clients.  With that in mind, I've spent the last few days moving between guiding a couple of students on the Camino, swapping leads on a couple of the longer multi-pitch with Peter and spent five days with Gareth on a general sports climbing course.

Peter on Amptrax

Peter had attempted Amptrax a few years ago with his son but had to bail off due to the heat.  The route leads you up  one of the highest point of the Frontales area and has recently been bolted to the top allowing for, those inclined to do so, to top it out.  Alternatively, you can abseil back down the wall (4 x 35m abseil), after the eighth pitch.
With many years of climbing experience, Peter was happy to swap leads to the top and we celebrated with a cold drink in the station bar after our successful tick.
Peter had intended to attempt Zeppelin on our second day together but we decided on an extension to Nitti, in sector Austria as a more appropriate grade.
The extension has been recently bolted to the top and offers six pitches of varied climbing up to 6b.  The crux pitch has a slabby, technical section and the climbing remains interesting to the top.  Another great day and two excellent routes ticked.

Gareth knee-baring

I spent five days with Gareth working on a general sports climbing intro.  Gareth organises climbing trips for the students at his school and therefore came with a good foundation of knowledge and experience.  As the focus has always been on his students on these trips, he wanted the opportunity to focus on his own development.  An excellent opportunity to cover a lot of ground over the five days.
We spent the time at a variety of crags to allow the opportunity to look at movement and climbing on different route types, from slabby to steep and some overhanging cruxes.
Multi-pitches offered us the opportunity to cover slick change overs, tying off the belay device, multi-pitch ropework and multiple abseil descent.
We looked at red-point tactics to tick some harder leads with a strong focus on breaking down the route to take advantage of the rests (knee-bars - good ledges), and pushing through the harder sections.
An excellent five days for both of us as I got the chance to cover so much with one client it was great to see the development and progression throughout the course.

I now have a few days off to celebrate the holidays and then on to a learn to lead course before focusing the remainder of my time on sending Ace Ventura and hang out with various friends that are coming out to play.  Good times ahead!

Overheating & Overhanging

So with four days of work done I felt that my fingertips and skin had recovered enough to go have another play on Ace Ventura with my motivational guru Andy Tapper (the most psyched climber I've ever met).  Over-enthusiasm had us heading to Ace on one of the hottest days of the week which made the tiny crimps, smears and edges feel ridiculously hard and sore. But we persevered to improve the sequences and sort out where and when to clip.
We thought we'd have to skip a few clips which started to look like a bit of a monster fall if the crux moves didn't go.  Luckily, just a wee bit of balance and some extended draws keeps the falls to just a normal screamer.
Although it was too hot to go for the lead we did get some strategy sorted, even to the point to see what time it's in the shade (4pm for those who are keen).  With the sun off it we had a couple more goes and the difference was immense.  Future trips will be on cold days or after 4pm.

Via de Rudolf

With destroyed fingers and a lack of skin we decided the best option would be to try one of the extension coming out poema cave.  Andy had done the right hand extension to Veiejo Amigo on his previous trip so we started our onslaught on the left hand extension - Via de Rudolf.  To the first chain it's a nice 7a+ and then leads on through the huge overhang on some amazing hanging tuffas, to give a fantastic 7c+/8a endurance route.

It's a true burl fest and far from what suits me.  

Andy finding a kneebar rest

The exposure as you're climbing up through the roof adds to the excitement and fun of the route as your swinging off big pockets, tuffa pinches and seeking out any rest to give the arms a wee bit of respite.

I don't have the guns for this route at the minute so will focus on Ace over the remainder of the trip  but with such fun climbing it's definitely one to come back to.  In the meantime it'll be great working it with Andy until I get the strength to give it a Redpoint attempt.

exhaustion after getting to the top

I'm now going into eight days of work so will have strong, rested fingers and skin to give Ace a good attempt at the end of it.

Sweat is fat crying

I've spent the last few days working with the lovely Ulrike focusing on single pitch climbing.  Ulrike had just spent the last two weeks on a bootcamp, living on 1,000 calories/day while being beasted for 6hrs/day - including, boxercise, 10km runs, circuits, hill walks....  The bootcamp included motivational phrases such as "sweat is fat crying".  Sounds horrible and amusing in equal measures.
With this in mind I was expecting a beasting but was very glad when she told me she wanted a chilled week of nice climbing.

On top of Escalare Arabe pillar

Having spent a week with Silvia Fitzpatrick in January, Ulrike already had a lot of the basic skills, so it was a case of a refresher on skills already learned and moving on from there.

Throughout the week we looked at movement on various rock from slabs, vertical and overhanging  routes; clipping quickdraws efficiently and correctly; re-threading anchors and eventually moved on to leading routes.

top roping at La Gaita

As it was a chilled week we also spent the days enjoying other distractions.  I was introduced to Carajillo - a coffee and brandy for breakfast, rumored to have been drank by troops for courage,  which set up the day nicely for some courageous climbing.

escalare arabe

We also were introduced to Silvi's puppies, Ratita and Osita.  The breaks between climbs were definitely often and long as the puppies were great to play with.  So we focused on the importance of rest between climbs as Ulrike got her first ever leads in that day.  Relaxing mentally and physically is an important part of the day and the puppies provided a fantastic distraction.

puppy power

Projecting

I've spent the last couple of weeks just climbing at various venues looking for a route that I'd like to spend some time working and belaying a friend on their project.  A good mate of mine, Darren, was playing on Talibania last year and wanted to finish it on this trip.
The weather didn't really help for the first couple of weeks of his trip so we just made sure we got mileage at the right grade and climbing style.  The route itself starts up a very overhanging groove on large holds to a good rest before you make technical/hard moves into a vertical groove and then continue up into a hard compression crux.  This takes you to the first chain and then you continue up to the second chain on less difficult ground but dealing with tiredness.  A great climb and very, very exposed.
Even with all the beta from Darren and being able to do the moves I never felt the love for the climb.  It would mean jumping up a grade for me and entering the world of 8a, which is something I really want to achieve but for me the route just did not enthuse me and I feel the amount of time I will have to spend on such a project I must love the climbing.  So for me, I moved on, for Darren it was time to learn, refine and understand.

Darren resting before the send

Warm up properly and rest.  So to get the arms working we progressed through the grades and then went onto an overhaning into vertical technical 7a+.  Basically the perfect warm up as it offered similar climbing and got the arms working hard.  Followed by a rest/snooze and then what seemed like an effortless send.  First 8a for Darren and lots of celebrating followed.

Andy getting ready for a TRON

I find I get inspired and motivated by my friends successes and have found myself a hard project that enthuses me.  I'd been wanting to try a climb called Ace Ventura since I arrived this year.  It's a vertical, technical, crimp fest which a friend of mine sent earlier this year.  I first saw this line on my first trip to chorro 7yrs ago and at the time thought it was something I would never ever be able to climb.  It looked so blank and impossible that I did not have the imagination or belief that I could get to that stage of climbing.

Over the years I have become more and more enthused by this style as I find that it throws a puzzle at you with tiny moves and nuances of movement and small adjustments to sequences being the secret solution to progressing to a successful ascent.

Andy and Patrick on their projects

So, we had our first play on it yesterday in the sun and heat, (not ideal conditions).  Within three top rope attempts Andy and I have worked out sequences that should get us to the top.  Having a mate joining you had definitely helped and other people with beta is starting to make this route very achievable.  

If it goes it will be my hardest sport route ever and a route that I feel very inspired to complete, as much for the grade, as for the fantastic climbing it offers.  

Now just need to regrow the skin and hope for colder temperatures!!

 

Learning, Refining, Roaring

Climb up the tuffa, clip first three clips, step left to no hands rest.  Breathe, relax, normalise heart rate.  right hand jug, cross through, feet high reach up into lay-back, right foot on polished hold, put in knee bar, relax, BREATHE, slow down heart rate, visualise next few moves.

Honk Down, F7c

right hand high, work feet up, both hands on tuffa, reach high and right to good hold, pull hard into jugs, shake out, continue into deep crack and hand jam rest.  BREATHE, slow down heart rate, visualise next moves.
left hand high into side pull, work feet high, right hand on upside down cruzzly (just on the right spot), stay smooth (holds aren't great hear), grab the thread, clip and move right into no-hands rest.  BREATHE, slow down heart rate (count to 100), visualise next section.
Traverse right, crossing through with the left hand, feet high, right hand lay-back crimp, left hand gaston, right hand edge, powerful move to bottom of the tuffa, cross feet through, clip, power up into good pocket, pull hard to next jug, reach high for the clip, move left to deep, juggy pocket, sort feet on those perfect holds for my height.  BREATHE, slow down heart rate, visualise SUCCESS through the next crux section.

Honk Down crux section

Deep breath, deep breath, deep breath, right hand side pull, feet up, remember that right foot hold, move up the crack, layback off the left hand clip smoothly, take a BREATH, look at exactly where you're putting you're feet, DEEP BREATH, work feet over the first two steps, bump left hand onto the block, (remember to BREATHE), tension the core, work right foot into the one true foot hold for you, get that left toe round to the toe-hook, keep the core tense, ROOOAAAARRRR, pull with the left foot, (visualise grabbing the hold), grab the hold, ROOAAAARR to stop the barn door, try as hard as you can, (I've held it, i've held it, don't let go), stay calm, stay focused. Move quickly efficiently, to semi jug, feet high (jugs and rest are coming), right hand gaston, left hand jug, clip off bent, locked arm (not the plan but stay on it), move to jugs.  STOP, BREATHE, slow down heart rate.  It's in the bag - chill out, just chill out!
Move up jugs, (I'm so pumped), BREATHE, slow to the chains, shake out. CLIP, CLIP, smile, thank your mates for the ENCOURAGEMENT.  Take it in.  Lower down to ground.  What's next.....

That was Honk Down, F7c.  Last years project and my hardest Red point ever.  

It took a lot of refining and many, many attempts to get to this stage.  Working out each section and refining it to the most smooth, efficient, effortless climbing took a lot of learning.  Learning from how my body feels at each stage, where am I rushing, where am I resting, which hold is perfect for me, are my feet in the right place, am I resting too long/not long enough...
In the end I got every move exactly where I wanted it to be and I still couldn't do it.  Ask others advice, sieve through the info, try it see what works.
In the end I think it came down to the breathing through the crux.  I was too focused on the crux moves to stay aware of my breath.
So, George (American), sent the route and I chatted to him.  It came down to roaring and screaming at every move.  Me (Irish), too shy to roar and scream (that's what Americans do), so it took another couple of attempts.
I got to the crux and roared.  This stopped me holding my breath and prepared me both physically and mentally to go all out.  Success.
When I climb at my limit, it often comes down to the simple/tiny differences that allow for success or failure.  Remembering what works and when and where to use these techniques in the future, is for me part of the joy of climbing.  Little nuances that make hard moves, smooth; pumpy sections effortless; hard cruxes achievable.
Several of us will be red-pointing some harder routes over the remainder of the trip and working out the enjoyable puzzle that gets us to the top.    

Not sweating it

It's been a couple of weeks since my last blog and in this case that's a good thing.  The weather, although temperamental  has allowed for lots of climbing.  Not always first venue choice but definitely lots of climbing to be had.

Some of my favourite climbing in El Chorro is on the great big overhanging, jug-fest, tuffa-ville, forearm exploding, super-long endurance test-pieces.  As we have had a lot of rain over the last few weeks the big tuffas have been sweating water like the climbers trying to crush them.  In fact most of the overhanging rock has been seeping for a while, especially in the mornings before the sun hits it and drys it out for us.  

Poema de Roca Cave.  Photo courtesy of Patrick Pearce

So I've spent a lot of time over the past couple of weeks on more vertical offerings in the area.  This style of climbing suits me better at the minute as I can compensate for my weaker arms with a bit of technique and footwork.  And I've also made use of the mileage achieved in the first few weeks to climb smoother and more confidently.  At least until I confidently and smoothly fall at the crux on some of the harder routes.

The search for vertical climbs has taken advantage of some fantastic sectors in the area with trips to Escalera Arabe and its beautiful views over the valley.   

Darren at Escalera Arabe.
Photo courtesy of Patrick Pearce.

And a great excursion to El Polvorin, through the gorge.  I've been to El Polvorin once before a few years ago but got put off by the difficulty of my supposed warm-up route.  El Polvorin offers several high quality routes, all super long on clean vertical rock, in a beautiful setting.  The warm-up is a 35m, 6a+ with a bit of a tough start which had me pumped for the rest of the route and never truly relaxed.  Off-putting, considering all the other climbs are at least 6c.

El Polvorin.  Photo courtesy of Patrick Pearce

Sticking with this crag definitely pays off.  We moved on to climb Pilier Dorada, Generacio spontanea and Habitos de un perturbado irrerdiable, each route worth the stars and top 50 accolade they receive and well worth the longer walk to get there.  A day spent on-sighting at a top venue like this is great ground work for getting on other longer routes as it offers you fantastic opportunity to focus on your route reading, identifying rests and crux sections.  Cementing the habit of climbing to the rests or identifying where the clipping hold is or where to push your hardest, especially on routes at your on-sighting limit creates the habits that help you succeed on harder and harder on-sights and pushes you up the more difficult projects.

A lot of climbing is down to arm and finger strength but sometimes it's this strength that can be a disadvantage, especially when we get closer to our max.  More and more I use the term you're just too strong when I try to give advice to climbers.  Learning to let go a bit and climb at your weakest brings you closer to the smoothness and effortless movement that allows you to arrive at those harder cruxes fresh and with plenty of power to push through.

Tom Ireson on Ace Ventura 8a/+.
Prize winning photo courtesy of Patrick Pearce.

With that in mind, today we're going to start our onslaught on Talibania F8a.  A project Darren was trying last year and we hope to send on this trip.  Not exactly my style, especially having spent the last few days on vertical rock, the over-hanging nature of this route will get me stronger and get me focusing on how to not use that strength until it is absolutely necessary.

On a wee side note...

All pictures are courtesy of Patrick Pearce.  The difference between my point and click approach and his understanding of the intricacies of creating something special and beautiful are so evident in the atmosphere and emotion he is able to portray in his artwork.  His pictures include the Petzl competition winning picture of Tom Ireson on Ace Ventura (above).

The great news is that Patrick is in El Chorro for the season and you can hire him for the day.  

Contact him for more details - patrickpearce@outlook.com

TRONing and working

Over the past few days I've managed to get a good bit of climbing in beautiful sunshine, with dry rock, good company and an education in some new terminology.  It's great to always learn something new in climbing whether it be a new route, a new crag, equipment... but I always find the terms that make it into the climbing world quite amusing.  Rot Punkt (Red pointing) from the practice of putting a red dot beside a route that is being worked but has not had a first ascent, back in the day in Frankenjura, the next step to pink pointing where the quickdraws are left in for the lead attempt; TOFP (tops off for power) - the realisation that the t-shirt weighs just too much and is hindering the send; the Send - the process of finishing a problem; the Problem - the route (used more in bouldering terminology), etc. etc.

Patrick TRONing Insominio de Equipmiento F6c+

I have now been introduced to TRONing - Top Rope Onsite.  A fantastic and amusing new term to describe your first attempt on a route which already has the rope in place.  It seems that it is less strict with it's limitations as I've been informed your second top rope attempt can still be called a TRON, although I do question their ethics or maybe it's just the lack of an equally amusing term for further attempts.

I have not yet partaken in this new phenomenon but I do look forward to being a TRONer at some stage and possibly even making it to MEGA-TRON status.

Colette on Rogelio F4+ or F6a+

I also had a lovely day working with Colette from Wexford.  We spent the day looking at some useful rope work related to sports climbing as well as leading, and got a great 9-pitch route in looking at rope management in a multipitch environment and smooth multiple abseil descent.

A great day out with a beautiful sunset to welcome us on our return to terra firma.

Colette back down from Rogelio